
Subtitle: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef
Gabrielle Hamilton's memoir of her life is a wonderful read, in spite of the fact that it's far from perfect. She changes tenses frequently from past to present, I think in an effort to get the reader more fully involved in specific scenes (but ends up distracting them instead); there are some embarrassing typos (when one wishes to purchase high-end jewelry, I believe they go to Tiffany's, not Tiffanny's); some sections drag a bit and are repetitive.
But so what?
From the opening pages, which were published in similar form in the New Yorker not long ago, Hamilton completely sucked me in with her tales of childhood, an eccentric and large family living in a burned-out silk mill in Pennsylvania, her mother from France, a "housewife" with a six-burner stove and a food fanatic:
"Our mother had her own double-tiered, potbellied couscoussier, and she made tagines with preserved lemons and cardamom pods, pigeon pies with sultanas and pine nuts, painstakingly brushing each fragile layer of phyllo dough with melted butter using a special brush made of white duck feathers, which would neither leave loose bristles in the dough nor perforate it."
Her father was a creator of theatrical scenery and a big proponent of elaborately themed parties, including a spring party with whole lambs roasted over an outdoor pit dug by hand, periodically swabbed with a mixture of olive oil, rosemary, garlic, and lemons.
You'd think from this that Hamilton logically went into the chef's life immediately, but no. A messy divorce and some teenage wild years threw her off-track, and when she did return to the world of cooking, it was only to earn a necessary paycheck. And in order to do that, she entered the world of catering.
Note: if you read this book, you will never, ever, ever again consume a canape at a large wedding reception. You've been warned.
In between catering work, she spends some summers cooking at a kid's camp, meeting Mark Bittman when he comes to pick his daughter up and wants to compliment the cook.In another impulsive decision (she makes a lot of those), she packs up and heads to Europe, where she bums around on a very limited budget before dropping in on people her family knew, and who gave her the opportunity to work behind the scenes at a small French bar and a tiny, rustic cafe on a lesser-known Greek island.
Eventually she became a chef at her own restaurant. Unlike so many star chefs, who begin at low levels in the kitchens of the great, Hamilton didn't work her way up the ranks; instead she acted on a whim when a restaurant space in her neighborhood became available, and decided she would do things her way, even if she didn't have the pedigree. The restaurant, Prune (a childhood nickname), was (is) a huge success, and from that point, Hamilton tells tales funny and touching about the difficulties of running a restaurant, meeting a man, getting married and having kids, and even why spending a month in Italy with your family-in-law every year can get old. Even the current locavore movement comes in for some tart commentary when faced with three weeks of limited choices in a small Italian town:
"In Leuca, there is nothing but eggplant. Local. Seasonal. Those are the words that turn everybody on these days. But twenty-one days of local eggplant season is torture.
"I think when people get all dreamy about local and seasonal, they are thinking of California, where you can get anything any time of year. But they are not referring to Santa Maria de Leuca, a small seaside town at the tip of the heel of the boot of Italy in the state of Puglia. And they are not imagining eating that way--local and seasonal--for twenty-one days straight. They know they can go get a platter of sushi at their local joint any night of the week. Maybe they are thinking of their week-long trip to Tuscany."
At times overly indulgent, at times maddening, Hamilton is never anything less that passionate about food, and this book made me long to hop a plane to New York and eat at her restaurant. The funny thing is, for all the imperfections, the best parts of the book really overrode the problematic parts for me, and I sailed along, not wanting it to end. Hamilton is all too human, and would perhaps roll her eyes at my thoughts on food and cooking, but by the end, I thought she'd be a great person to have a drink with.